The Amapola Sweater
An advanced beginner-friendly knitted sweater– my Amapola Sweater– is a free pattern here on the blog! Read through my inspiration, materials and stitch pattern used. Or scroll on down for the free pattern.
Introduction + Design
The Amapola Sweater (poppy in English) was conceived from the yarn. The color and cloudiness of the yarn were captivating, and immediately reminiscent of poppies. To me they pose the perfect balance of being ethereal and delicate, but strong at the same time. This balance is translated into the sweater by playing with the texture of mohair, making it almost translucent by working it with one strand and big needles, and then holding three strands together and smaller needles.
The Amapola Sweater is a top-down sweater that features raglan shaping for the shoulder, and a deep V neckline on the back. It is worked flat until reaching the end of the neckline, where the body is joined and worked in the round. The sleeves are worked in the round.
The yoke of the Amapola Sweater is worked holding one strand for the first half, and three strands together for the second half, and for the remainder of the Sweater.
A top down sweater for all!
Do you wanna learn to knit top down sweaters? This is the perfect opportunity to do it! You will practice a few kinds of increases, but besides that, it’s all Stockinette Stitch, with easy to follow instructions on how to work the raglan shaping, and how to join the body. Plus, there’s no seaming at all, so you’ll be able to wear your garment much faster!
The coziness and lightness of mohair, combined
You’ll be working with mohair using different needle sizes and holding both one and three strands together, which will give you two completely different textures: one, incredibly light and etheral, and the other, cozy and warm.
All sizes!
This pattern is graded to fit chest sizes from 30 to 62 in, and it has an oversized fit. It’s perfect to combine with skinny jeans or leggins, and the deep V-neck on the back will make evyone feel super sexy and comfortable at the same time.
Free Pattern
The pattern is available for free in this blog post. This blog has ads so I can provide the pattern for free.
Ad-free PDF version
Get the ad-free, large print, printable PDF pattern, which includes a stitch and row count table HERE on Ravelry, or HERE on Etsy.
Buying the PDF version makes it easy to follow the pattern without ads and is ideal if you want to print the pattern. As a bonus, when you buy the pattern it supports my work and enables me to continue making patterns for you!
Techniques Required
Knit & purl, slip stitches, cast-on and bind-off
Increasing stitches
Decreasing stitches
Working from written instructions
Picking up stitches
Blocking
Yarn
For this sweater you will need:
Lace weight. Any yarn with at least 50% of Mohair on its composition, and a ball of yarn of about 219 yd/200 m per 0.9 oz/25 gr, like Debbie Bliss Angel (75% Mohair, 24% Silk). Or these, for example.
Yardage
The yardage is an approximation plus 10% (for security) for all sizes. It also includes a calculation of how much yarn it takes to work 1 in/2.54 cm of the body of the sweater in case you want to shorten it or lengthen it.
Materials
Needles
US size 8/5 mm circular needles (32 in/80 cm long at least) or size to obtain correct gauge (smaller needles).
Dpns the same size as the smaller needles.
US size 11/8 mm needles or size to obtain correct gauge (bigger needles).
Notions
● Tapestry needle.
● 8 Stitch markers or scrap yarn.
Gauge
16.5 sts and 21 rows = 4”/10 cm in Stockinette stitch worked flat with US size 8/5 mm needles after blocking .
11 sts and 13.5 rows = 4”/10 cm in Stockinette stitch worked flat with US size 11/8 mm needles after blocking .
Take time to save time! Knit the gauge sample.
Sizes
1(2, 3, 4, 5)(6, 7, 8, 9)
To fit with + 2-4 in/5-10 cm of ease at the bust.
Note: Sample was knit in Size 3, to fit the model with a 36 ½ in/93 cm bust.
Finished Measurements
Bust at underarm: 32 (36, 40, 44, 48)(52, 56, 60, 64) in/81.5 (91.5, 111.5, 112, 122)(132, 142, 152, 162.5) cm
Finished Length: 20 ½ (21 ½, 22 ¼, 22 ¾, 22 ¼)(23, 23 ½, 24 ½, 24 ½) in/52 (54.5, 56.5, 58, 56.5)(58.5, 59.5, 61.5, 62) cm.
Schematics
Abreviations
k: knit
k2tog: knit 2 together
k3tog: knit 3 together
m1L: make 1 left
m1R: make 1 right
m1Lp: make 1 left purl
m1Rp: make 1 right purl
LN: left-hand needle
p: purl
pm: place marker
RN: right-hand needle
RS: right side
sl: slip
sm: slip marker
ssk: slip, slip, knit
sssk: slip, slip, slip, knit
WS: wrong side
wyib: with the yarn in the back
wiyf: with the yarn in the front
yo: yarn over
Techniques
Knit 2 together: insert the needle through the front loops of the first 2 sts on the LN needle and k them together as if they were 1 st.
Knit 3 together: insert the needle through the front loops of the first 3 sts on the LN needle and k them together as if they were 1 st.
Make 1 Left: this is an increase method that creates a new stitch from the strand between 2 existing stitches, and the new stitch leans towards the left. To do it, insert the left-hand needle under the strand between the left and right-hand needles from front to back lifting the strand onto the needle. With the yarn in back, insert the right-hand needle from front to back into the back loop of the stitch. Knit it.
Make 1 Right: increase method that creates a new stitch from the strand between 2 existing stitches, which leans towards the right. To do it, insert the LN from back to front under the strand between the LN and RN, lifting the strand onto the needle. With the yarn in back, insert the RN from front to back into the front loop of the stitch. Knit it.
Make 1 Purl Left: this is an increase method that creates a new stitch from the strand between 2 existing stitches, and the new stitch leans towards the left on the RS. To do it, insert the LN under the strand between the LN and RN from front to back lifting the strand onto the needle. With the yarn in front, insert the RN from front to back into the back loop of the stitch. Purl it.
Make 1 Purl Right: this is an increase method that creates a new stitch from the strand between 2 existing stitches, and the new stitch leans towards the right on the RS. To do it, insert the LN under the strand between the LN and RN from back to front lifting the strand onto the needle. With the yarn in front, insert the RN from front to back into the front loop of the stitch. Purl it.
Slip st: slip st to the right-hand needle pwise, unless instructed otherwise.
Slip, slip, knit: sl next 2 sts to the RN, one by one, kwise. Slide the left-hand needle into the front loops of the slipped sts and knit them together.
Slip, slip, slip, knit: sl next 2 sts to the Right-hand needle, one by one, knitwise. Sl the next st pwise to the Right-hand needle. Slide the left-hand needle into the front loops of the 3 slipped sts and knit them together through the back loop.
Yarn over: bring the working yarn over your needle from front to back.
Stitch Patterns
Stockinette st. flat
K all sts on RS rows and p all sts on WS rows.
Stockinette st. in the round
K all sts on all rounds.
1x1 Rib st. in the round
(Even number of sts)
Round 1: *k1, p1; repeat from * until the end of the round.
Repeat Round 1 until the desired length.
Notes
I am a loose knitter. If you are a tight knitter, I advise you to try knitting a gauge swatch with one needle size bigger than stated in pattern.
For best results, read the entire pattern before you start to knit. Send your questions/comments to [email protected]
Let’s knit!
Cast on 50 (52, 56, 58, 60)(62, 62, 64, 68) sts holding one strand of yarn and with the bigger needles.
Set-up Row: sl 1 knitwise, k1, pm, p1, k1, p1, pm, k6, pm, p1, k1, p1, pm, k22 (24, 28, 30, 32)(34, 34, 36, 40), pm, p1, k1, p1, pm, k6, pm, p1, k1, p1, pm, k2. 8 st markers placed.
Begin Yoke
Row 1 (WS row, Increase Row 1): sl 1, *p to the next marker, sm, k1, sl 1 wyif, k1, sm, p1, m1Lp, p to 1 st before the next marker, m1Rp, p1, sm, k1, sl 1 wyif, k1, sm; repeat from * once more. p to the end of the row. 4 sts increased. — 54 (56, 60, 62, 64)(66, 66, 68, 72) sts.
Row 2 (RS row, Increase Row 2): sl 1 knitwise, *k to 1 st before the next marker, m1R, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, k1, m1L, k to 1 st before the next marker, m1R, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, k1, m1L; repeat from * once more. k to the end of the row. 8 sts increased. — 62 (64, 68, 70, 72)(74, 74, 76, 80) sts.
Work Increase Rows 1 and 2 (Rows 1 and 2, respectively) one (zero, twice, five, five)(six, six, seven, seven) times more. — 74 (64, 92, 130, 132)(146, 146, 160, 164) sts.
Size 1 (2, 3, 4, 5)(6, 7, -, -)
Row 5 (3, 7, 13, 13)(15, 15, -, -)(WS row): sl 1, *p to the next marker, sm, k1, sl 1 wyif, k1, sm, p to the next marker, sm, k1, sl 1 wyif, k1, sm; repeat from * once more. p to the end of row.
Work Increase Row 2 (Row 2) and Row 5 (3, 7, 13, 13)(15, 15, -, -) four (six, four, two, two)(one, one, -, -) times more. End with a WS row. — 106 (112, 124, 146, 148)(154, 154, -, -) sts.
Size - (-, -, -, -)(-, -, 8, 9)
Repeat Increase Row 1 (Row 1) - (-, -, -, -)(-, -, one, one) times more. — - (-, -, -, -)(-, -, 164, 168) sts.
Change to smaller needles
With the smaller needles, and holding three strands of yarn together, work Row 14 (16, 16, 18, 18)(18, 18, 18, 18) as follows:
Size 1 (2, -, -)(-, -, -, -)
Row 14 (16, -, -, -)(-, -, -, -)(RS row): sl 1 knitwise, k to the next marker, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, (k1, m1R) six times. (k2, m1L) five times. (k1, m1R) five times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, k1, m1R. (k4, m1R) three times. (k2, m1L) six (eight, -, -, -)(-, -, -, -) times. (k4, m1R) two times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (k1, m1R) five times. (k2, m1L) five times. (k1, m1R) six times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k to the end of the row. 44 (46, -, -, -)(-, -, -, -) sts increased. — 150 (158, -, -, -)(-, -, -, -) sts.
Size - (-, 3, -, -)(-, -, -, -)
Row - (-, 16, -, -)(-, -, -, )(RS row): sl 1 knitwise, (k3, m1R) two times, k2, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (k1, m1R) four times. (k2, m1L) nine times. (k1, m1R) three times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k1, m1R. k4, m1R, (k2, m1L) fourteen times. (k4, m1R) two times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, (k2, m1L) nine times. (k1, m1R) three times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k2, (m1R, k3) two times, k1. - (-, 54, -, -)(-, -, -, -) sts increased. — - (-, 178, -, -)(-, , -, -) sts.
Size - (-, -, 4, -)(-, -, -, -)
Row - (-, -, 18, -)(-, -, -, -)(RS row): sl 1 knitwise, (k4, m1R) two times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (k1, m1R) two times, (k2, m1L) fifteen times. k1, m1R, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k1, m1R, k4, m1R. (k2, m1L) fourteen times. (k4, m1R) two times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, (k1, m1R) two times, (k2, m1L) fifteen times. k1, m1R, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k1, (m1R, k4) two times, k1. - (-, -, 60, -)(-, -, -, -) sts increased. — - (-, -, 206, -)(-, -, -, -) sts.
Size - (-, -, -, 5)(-, -, -, -)
Row - (-, -, -, 18)(-, -, -, -)(RS row): sl 1 knitwise, (k2, m1R) three times, k3, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (k1, m1R) eight times. (k2, m1L) nine times. (k1, m1R) seven times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k1, m1R, (k2, m1L) twenty-three times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, (k1, m1R) eight times. (k2, m1L) nine times. (k1, m1R) seven times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k3, (m1R, k2) three times, k1. - (-, -, -, 78)(-, -, -, -) sts increased. — - (-, -, -, 226)(-, -, -, -) sts.
Size - (-, -, -, -)(6, -, -, -)
Row - (-, -, -, -)(18, -, -, -)(RS row): sl 1 knitwise, m1R, (k2, m1R) four times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (k1, m1R) nine times. (k2, m1L) nine times. (k1, m1R) eight times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (k1, m1R) four times. (k2, m1L) twenty-one times. (k1, m1R) three times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, (k1, m1R) nine times. (k2, m1L) nine times. (k1, m1R) eight times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k1, (m1R, k2) four times, m1R, k1. - (-, -, -, -)(90, -, -, -) sts increased. — - (-, -, -, -)(244, -, -, -) sts.
Size - (-, -, -, -)(-, 7, -, -)
Row - (-, -, -, -)(-, 18, -, -)(RS row): sl 1 knitwise, (k1, m1R) seven times, k2, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (k1, m1R) thirteen times. (k2, m1L) five times. (k1, m1R) twelve times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (k1, m1R) four times. (k2, m1L) seventeen times. (k1, m1R] seven times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, (k1, m1R) thirteen times. (k2, m1L) five times. (k1, m1R) twelve times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k1, (m1R, k) seven times, k1. - (-, -, -, -)(-, 106, -, -) sts increased. — - (-, -, -, -)(-, 260, -, -) sts.
Size - (-, -, -, -)(-, -, 8, -)
Row - (-, -, -, -)(-, 18, -, -)(RS row): sl 1 knitwise, (k1, m1R) eight times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k1, (k1, m1R) fourteen times. (k2, m1L) five times. (k1, m1R) thirteen times, k2, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (k1, m1R) thirteen times. (k2, m1L) thirteen times. (k1, m1R) twelve times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, k1, (k1, m1R) fourteen times. (k2, m1L) five times. (k1, m1R) thirteen times, k2, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k1, (m1R, k1) eight times, k1. - (-, -, -, -)(-, -, 118, -) sts increased. — - (-, -, -, -)(-, -, 282, -) sts.
Size - (-, -, -, -)(-, -, -, 9)
Row - (-, -, -, -)(-, -, -, 18)(RS row): sl 1 knitwise, m1R, (k1, m1R) nine times, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k1, (k1, m1R) sixteen times. (k2, m1L) three times. (k1, m1R) fifteen times, k2, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. (k1, m1R) fifteen times. (k2, m1L) thirteen times. (k1, m1R) fourteen times, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, k1, (k1, m1R) sixteen times. (k2, m1L) three times. (k1, m1R) fifteen times, k2, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm. k1, (m1R, k1) eight times, m1R, k1. - (-, -, -, -)(-, -, -, 130) sts increased. — - (-, -, -, -)(-, -, -, 298) sts.
Begin Neckline Shaping
Size 1 (2, -, -, 5)(6, 7, 8, -)
Note: the following instructions have not been worked for size 8 yet but they have for the other sizes, so follow the instructions of Row 5 (3, 7, -, 13)(15, 1-, -, -) for size 8, even when there is not a specific row number for that size.
Row 15 (17, -, -, 19)(19, 19, 19, -)(WS row): repeat Row 5 (3, -, -, 13)(15, 15, -, -)(WS row).
Size - (-, 3, 4, -)(-, -, -, -)
Row - (-, 17, 19, -)(-, -, -, -)(WS row, Increase Row 3): sl 1, m1pL, *p to the next marker, sm, k1, sl 1 wyif, k1, sm, p to the next marker, sm, k1, sl 1 wyif, k1, sm; repeat from * once more. p to 1 st to the end of the row, m1pR, p1. 2 sts increased. — -(-, 180, 208, -)(-, -, -, -) sts.
Size - (-, -, -, -)(-, -, -, 9)
Row - (-, -, -, -)(-, -, -, 19)(WS row, Increase Row 4): sl 1 purlwise, m1pL, *p to the next marker, sm, k1, sl 1 wyif, k1, sm, p1, m1Lp, p to 1 st before the next marker, m1Rp, p1, sm, k1, sl 1 wyif, k1, sm; repeat from * once more. p to 1 st to the end of the row, m1pR, p1. 6 sts increased. — -(-, -, -, -)(-, -, -, 304) sts.
All sizes
Row 16 (18, 18, 20, 20)(20, 20, 20, 20)(RS row, Increase Row 5): sl 1 knitwise, m1L, *k to 1 st before the next marker, m1R, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, k1, m1L, k to 1 st before the next marker, m1R, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, k1, m1L; repeat from * once more. k to the last st, m1R, k1. 10 sts increased. 160 (168, 190, 218, 236)(254, 270, 292, 314) sts.
Size 1 (2, 3, -, 5)(6, 7, 8, -)
Note: the following instructions have not been worked for size 8 yet but they have for the other sizes, so follow the instructions of Row 5 (3, 7, -, 13)(15, 15, -, -) and Row 5 (3, 7, -, 13)(15, 15, -, -) for size 8, even when there is not a specific row number for that size.
Work Row 5 (3, 7, -, 13)(15, 15, -, -) and Increase Row 5 (Row 16 (18, 18, -, 20)(20, 20, -, -)) three (four, four, -, five)(six, twelve, eleven, -) times, and then Row 5 (3, 7, -, 13)(15, 15, -, -) once more. — 190 (208, 230, -, 286)(314, 390, 402, -) sts.
Size - (-, -, 4, -)(-, -, -, 9)
Work Increase Row 3 (Row - (-, -, 19, -)(-, -, -, -)) once. 2 sts increased — - (-, -, 220, -)(-, -, -, 316) sts.
Work Increase Row 5 (Row - (-, -, 20, -)(-, -, -, 20)) and Row 5 (3, 7, -, 13)(15, 15, -, -) - (-, -, five, -)(-, -, -, eleven) times. — - (-, -, 270, -)(-, -, -, 426) sts.
Size 1 (2, 3, 4, 5)(6, -, 8, 9)
Row 24 (28, 28, 32, 32)(34, -, 44, 44)(RS row, Increase Row 6): sl 1 knitwise, m1L, *k to the next marker, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm, k1, m1L, k to 1 st before the next marker, m1R, k1, sm, p1, k1, p1, sm; repeat from * once more. k to the last st, m1R, k1. 6 sts increased. — 196 (214, 236, 276, 292)(320, -, 408, 432) sts.
Note: the following instructions have not been worked for size 9 yet but they have for the other sizes, so follow the instructions of Row 5 (3, 7, -, 13)(15, 15, -, -) for size 9, even when there is not a specific row number for that size.
Row 25 (29, 29, 33, 33)(35, -, 45, 45): work Row 5 (3, 7, 13, 13)(15, -, -, -)(WS row).
Row 26 (30, 30, 34, 34)(36, -, 46, 46): work Increase Row 5 (Row 16 (18, 18, 20, 20)(20, -, 20, -)). 10 sts increased. — 206 (224, 246, 286, 302)(330, -, 418, 442) sts.
Row 27 (31, 31, 35, 35)(37, -, 47, 47): work Row 5 (3, 7, 13, 13)(15, -, -, -)(WS row).
Work Rows 24 (28, 28, 32, 32)(34, -, 44, 44) to 27 (31, 31, 35, 35)(37, -, 47, 47) one (one, one, one, two)(two, -, zero, zero) times more. — 222 (240, 262, 302, 334)(362, -, 418, 442) sts.
Divide the Body and the Sleeves
Row 32 (36, 36, 40, 44)(46, 46, 48, 48)(RS row): sl 1 knitwise, m1L, *k to the next marker, remove the marker, place 60 (62, 66, 78, 88)(94, 98, 106, 110) sts on a stitch holder, cast on 8 sts with the backward loop method; repeat from * once more. k to the last st, m1R, k1. 18 sts increased for the body, 60 (62, 66, 78, 88)(94, 98, 106, 110) sts left of hold for each sleeve. —120 (134, 148, 164, 176)(192, 212, 224, 240) sts for the body.
Now the body is joined together (the right back, the front, and the left back), and the sts for the sleeves are on hold. You will continue working the body back and forth until you complete the neckline shaping. Once you do, you will join the body in the round, and work that way until the end of the rib.
Row 33 (37, 37, 41, 45)(47, 47, 49, 49) and the remaining WS rows until the end of the neckline shaping: sl 1, p to the end of the row.
Row 34 (38, 38, 42, 46)(48, 48, 50, 50)(RS row, Increase Row 7): sl 1 knitwise, m1L, k to the last st, m1R, k1. 2 sts increased. 122 (136, 150, 166, 178)(194, 214, 226, 242).
Repeat Increase Row 7 (Row 34 (38, 38, 42, 46)(48, 48, 50, 50)) every RS row
three (five, seven, seven, nine)(nine, eight, eleven, eleven) times more. — 128 (146, 164, 180, 196)(212, 230, 248, 264) sts.
Size 1(2, -, -, -)(-, 7, -, -)
Row 40 (48, -, -, -)(-, 64, -, -): sl 1 knitwise, k to the end of row.
Repeat Increase Row 7 (Row 34 (38, -, -, -)(-, 48, -, -)) every 4th row two (one, zero, zero, zero)( zero, one, zero, zero) times more. Work Row 40 (48, -, -, -)(-, 64, -, -) on the rows where you don’t have to increase sts. End with a WS row. — 132 (148, -, -, -)(-, 232, -, -) sts.
Join the Body
Work one more non increase row, pm, and join in the round. Work in St st in the round (k all sts on all rounds) slipping the st marker at the end of each round for 33 (37, 39, 37, 24)(25, 23, 21, 23) rounds more or until the Front measures 17 ½ (18 ½, 19 ¼, 19 ¾, 19 ¼)(20, 20 ½, 21 ¼, 21 ¼) in/44.5 (47, 49, 50, 49)(51, 52, 54, 54.5) cm from the cast on edge.
Next Round (Decrease Round 1): k3 (3, 5, 5, 7)(7, 7, 7, 9), k2tog. [k2 (2, 4, 4, 6)(6, 6, 6, 8), k2tog] six (two, seven, three, eleven)(seven, twelve, eight, twelve) times. [k4 (4, 6, 6, 8)(8, 8, 8, 10), k2tog] thirteen (twenty-one, nine, seventeen, one)(nine, three, eleven, one) times. [k2 (2, 4, 4, 6)(6, 6, 6, 8), k2tog] six (two, seven, three, eleven)(seven, twelve, eight, twelve) times, k1. 26 (26, 24, 24, 24)(24, 28, 28, 26) sts decreased. — 106 (122, 140, 156, 172)(188, 204, 220, 238) sts.
Begin Rib
Next Round: *k1, p1; repeat from * to the end of the round.
Work the last round fifteen more times, or until the Front measures 20 ½ (21 ½, 22 ¼, 22 ¾, 22 ¼)(23, 23 ½, 24 ¼, 24 ½) in/52 (54.5, 56.5, 58, 56.5)(58.5, 59.5, 61.5, 62) cm from the cast on edge.
Bind off all sts in pattern.
SLEEVES
Follow these instructions twice to complete the sleeves.
With the Right Side of the sweater facing you and the short circular needles or dpns, and holding three strands of yarn together, pick up and k the 8 sts from the armhole that you casted on when you separated the Sleeve sts from the Body sts before. Then, from the stitches you left on hold from the sleeve, k2tog three times, k until there are 6 sts left, ssk three times, pm to mark the beginning of the round. — 62 (64, 68, 80, 90)(96, 100, 108, 112) sts.
Join in the round (by continuing working on the Right Side) and work in St st (k all the sts on all rounds), slipping the st marker at the end of each round. Work in this way for 62 (64, 66, 68, 68)(68, 68, 70, 74) more rounds, or until the Sleeve measures 12 (12 ½, 13, 13 ¼, 13 ¼)(13 ¼, 13 ¼, 13 ¾, 14 ¼) in/30.5 (31.5, 33, 33.5, 33.5)(33.5, 33.5, 35, 36) cm from where you picked up the sts.
Next Round (Decrease Round 2): k2 (3, 3, 2, 2)(2, 2, 2, 1), k3tog nine (nine, ten, twelve, fourteen)(fifteen, sixteen, seventeen, eighteen) times, k4 (5, 5, 4 3)(3, 3, 3, 2), sssk nine (nine, nine, twelve, fourteen)(fifteen, fifteen, seventeen, eighteen) times, k to the end of the round. 36 (36, 38, 48, 56)(60, 62, 68, 72) sts decreased. — 26 (28, 30, 32, 34)(36, 38, 40, 40) sts.
Begin Rib
Next Round: *k1, p1; repeat from * until the end of the round.
Work the last Round fifteen more times, or until the Sleeve measures 15 (15 ½, 16, 16 ¼, 16 ¼)(16 ¼, 16 ¼, 16 ¾, 17 ¼) in/38 (39.5, 40.5, 41.5, 41.5)(41.5, 41.5, 42.5, 44) cm from where you picked up the sts.
Bind off all sts in pattern.
FINISHING
Weave the ends in and block the sweater to measurements. Now you’re ready to rock your Amapola Sweater!
And now your Amapola Sweater is ready for you to rock it!
You can share your handknits with the KBD community tagging me and using the hashtags #AmapolaSweater and #katebarriosdesigns
Credits
Tech editor: Catherine Whelan (@snooptiggercrafts)
Copyrights
Copyright Kate Barrios Designs, 2021. You are welcome to sell finished items of this pattern, but please give credit to my design linking my website and social media.
You are not allowed to alter this pattern and sell a similar one.
Version 1, September 2021.
